The Golden Age of the medium-frame .38 Special revolver as a primary law-enforcement sidearm ended several decades ago. However, small-frame snubbies (5-shot S&W J-Frames more often than not) are still enormously popular with CCW holders. In fact, even with the ascendancy of polymer-framed, striker-fired autos, more than a few LE types (and not necessarily old-timers) still employ these reliable little wheelguns, such as the S&W Model 40, in the role of a backup weapon.
Despite the fact they’re relatively difficult to shoot well with a high degree of control in rapid fire and offer a low on-board round count compared to compact 9mm or .380 autos, the 2-inch (Ok, 1 7/8-inch) Smith snubbie remains popular for several reasons. All of them are just as sensible now as when the groundbreaking Chiefs Special was unveiled in 1950.
Why?
They’re as compact a “round gun” as you’re going to find. The .38 Special, particularly with current defensive loads, is no slouch power-wise. There are no “carry conditions,” external safeties, magazine releases, slide stops, or malfunction drills that I’m aware of. Snubbies are either loaded or they’re not; they’re simple to operate—point, shoot, repeat as necessary.
The J Frames
In terms of type, Smith J-Frames can be broken down into three basic categories—external hammer (double-action/single action), shrouded hammer (DA/SA again), and internal hammer (“hammerless”). Whether the frame is alloy, stainless or carbon steel, the unloaded weight of most current models usually ranges (roughly) between 12 and 16 ounces.
I shoot J-Frames a lot and my favorite is a long out-of-print oldie — the blued, carbon-steel Model 40 (1952-1974), originally introduced as the Centennial in 1952, the name change came about around 1957 when Smith decided to start numbering models. It features an internal hammer and a grip safety.
Mine is an M40 “dash nothing” and features smooth walnut service-type stocks. The fact it’s “hammerless” rates as a good thing. It’s made me a better shooter once I resigned myself to the fact that I had no single-action option to tempt me from the path of DAO doctrinal righteousness. Empty, it weighs an old-school 21 ounces and is quite comfortable to shoot.
A word in passing about that “lemon squeezer” grip safety: I found that I could depress it more surely and more quickly once I installed a Tyler-T grip adapter on the gun. This is pretty much a personal preference, so I don’t claim it’s a desirable add-on for everybody. But one other thing in favor of the Tyler T is that it allows me to stick with those skimpy service stocks and not have to worry about whether a HKS speedloader is going to get hung up on beefy aftermarket stocks.
First thing I do with any fixed sight revolver regardless of frame size is to find out what super-duper premium hoo-hah stuff shoots best in it — “best” meaning the closest compromise between Point of Aim and Point of Impact. With a snubbie, my shooting distances are usually 25 and 50 feet. Then, I go buy bulk-pack cheapo stuff (usually 130-grain Winchester or Remington FMJ or Blazer 158-grain LRN or FMJ) to see where it prints in relation to the high-priced stuff.
The thing is, you need to shoot any J-Frame a lot to deal with that steep, short-barrel learning curve. Even if they’re all-steel specimens, mass amounts of Plus P and you’ll be running back to the gunsmith for a tune and tighten more often than you’d like. And, I really don’t want to stress this classic. Original old Smiths like this verge on the “Unobtainium” classification.
The trigger on this old Model 40 is a smooth, very manageable 10 pounds. So no, I never seriously flirted with the idea of installing a lighter trigger return spring. There’s a very slight tick about halfway through the pull—just enough to permit staging for deliberate shooting in the kinds of situations where you might normally resort to going single action, if you had an external hammer, that is!
After considerable experimentation, I was lucky enough to find the right high-performance load for the Model 40. It turned out to be Federal Premium Micro 130-grain HST JHP Plus-P. The load features a huge cavity, so much so that it almost resembles a flush-fit, upside-down wadcutter. At 50 feet, everything “hit the top of the front sight” and clocked a snubbily-impressive 870 fps. Evidently, the Federal engineers knew what they were doing in concocting a defensive load specifically for short barrels.
POI-wise, the closest cheap practice alternative turned out to be Remington/UMC 250-round bulk-pack 130-grain FMJ, a low-stress item that’s really fun to shoot. For pure photogenic “group-tightness,” the winner was Black Hills 148-grain target wadcutters (which, unfortunately, shaded a couple inches left).
The Model 40 is one cool vintage/retro item. I like it so much I may just get one of its enclosed-hammer successors (say a Model 442) so I don’t get tempted to work my original too hard.
I want it to outlast me.
Do you carry a S&W Model 40 or other snubbie as a backup or primary defensive handgun? Which load do you prefer for your snubbie? Share your answers in the comment section.
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Horse traded my new 642 for a used 360. A little lighter, 16 oz+ loaded with Hornady 357 Critical Duty and a hammer. I never could master the DAO for a precise shot if needed. Goes in my front pocket in a Desantis holster everywhere I go. Even Walmart……but I buy my ammo elsewhere. And just about everything else except groceries. Sorry, they are only game in town. They run all the gun shops and grocery stores in town out of business, then decide what we really need. Screw em! Go someplace else.
I carry a 642 Airweight Performance Center model. IWB, or pocket, it goes where I go. A set of VZ G-10 grips fit and look great and work fine without speed loader interference. I carry with Liberty Civil Defense 50 grn +P. They hit point of aim, fast and hard. And at 50 grn they make for really light carry weight. Most days a Blackhawk sticky holster works IWB or pocket. And a nice Galco leather model rides OWB on light jacket days.
I practice with same Rem. 130 grn FMJ as the author. And I always shoot a few of the LCD JHP too. No whatever else I take to the range I always get off a few rounds from my snubbie.
I own several snubbies, and always have. I own many pistols of all kinds,as I am a “professional trainer”,and need to be proficient in many different genre. However, my models 60, 649,49, 36(2),and 37 are always close by. The stainless 60 and 649 in use as a pair,on more humid days as I use the 36 and 649. One in a pocket,one in an aiwb. The 649 and 49 models are perfect for a pocket with the enclosed hammer but still retain the ability to go SA for that finer shot if needed. I prefer two as a NY reload like J. Cirillo of the original NYC Stakeout squad did.The 37 is an original first issue,and is used when weight must be a minimum! I use primarily Hornady 125gr critical defense, and the 110 lite version in the 37 . I have original grips on all of them with orig. Tyler T grips. I have polished the rebound slide and ajacent areas and installed Wolff springs in all of them. They avg 8.5lb/3.5lbs DA/SA. Even though I carry a Glock 19/42 most times. I still bring out the snubbies and use them. I will always have them. The is something about a revolver and especially snubbies, steel and walnut, that you can not explain to devotees of the plastic fantasicvera…you either have them in your “soul”,or you dont. I love mine and never feel under gunned when I carry them.
I have to admit, that’s truly a beautiful old style M-40 you have there ! I recall back in the mid 1980’s IIRC, when they were available on the open market. Smith had released a run of them, which has long since disappeared into collections. I began my ‘love affair’ with the J Frames after carrying a M-49 for a few years. From then on, I’ve never been without one, ever ! I’ve tried them all, M-38, M-640, M-642, & finally settled with an special run, M-642 with Factory Magna-Porting, & an all steel M-640 with a 3″ HB. Each fills a specific need, & each will serve you extremely well, provided you take the time & effort to learn where it shoots, & which load[s] it prefers. ( Exactly as the author did with his M-40. ) I will say, that once you become accustomed to an alloy J Frame, it can be quite annoying to carry a steel version again. Currently, I gravitate towards the Speed 135 GDHP+P for the 642, & also for the 3″ , 640, although I may load Buffalo Bore’s 158 LSWC-HP+P on occasion. For the recoil shy, the old 148 WC, as also loaded by Buffalo Bore can be an excellent option. It’s cast very hard, & is propelled to a decent velocity, not the 650+/- FPS range of some of the other manufacturers. ( Note that BB also loads an non +P 158 LSWC-HP, or non +P 158 LSWC which also offers acceptable performance in a non +P version. ) Even in today’s era of modular auto pistol, the old, humble S&W J Frame, along with all the related type revolvers still provide a fair level of usefulness, provided your shots are kept within it’s effective range, & you know beforehand where it will hit. I’m also very fond of the Colt D – Frame’s, as they too will perform the same role as the S&W J Frames. That however should be discussed in another Post.